Leopard Gecko for Sale
Habitat for Leopard Gecko's
Tank Size: With young leopard geckos you want to start with a smaller tank. If the tank is too big they will have trouble catching their food (crickets and mealworms). Start with a small tank (as small as 5 gallons) and work your way up to a larger tank (20 gallons for adults). Although leopard geckos are not known for their climbing ability they are capable of climbing out of cages. Make sure that your cage has a secure top!
Substrate: Use a substrate that is safe for your gecko! Most people believe that they can use sand or calcium-based sands and their gecko will be fine. This is not true! Solid substrates are a much better choice. You can use substrates like bark, but crickets can hide in the bark making them difficult for your gecko to find. Using paper towels or newsprint that hasnít been printed on yet is the best substrate, especially for young geckos.
Lighting: UV lighting is NOT necessary for leopard geckos. They are primarily nocturnal and so do not benefit from the light unless you are using it as a heat source.
Heating: Most people recommend staying away from heat rocks because they will burn your gecko, but I have NEVER had this happen. If you are worried about the heat rock becoming too hot for your gecko you can cover it with a cloth to prevent thermal burns. I like the heat rocks because they are a more natural way of providing the heat necessary for your geckoís digestion.
Remember that in a natural setting leopard geckos are exposed to much higher temperatures. If you are worried about the heat rock causing burns there are alternatives. On glass cages you can use UTH (Under the Tank Heaters) for a gradient heat or heat lamps can be used to increase temperatures. One side of the cage should be 85-95 degrees at floor level and the other side should be maintained at a color temperature. This allows the gecko to maintain its own body temperature.
If you are using a plastic cage you can use a UTH if you stick it to a piece of glass and then put it under the tank, but this is not recommended.
Feeding: Geckos are insectivores and will eat any live insect. You should not feed them insects that are bigger than the width of your geckoís mouth because this can cause them to choke. Crickets and mealworms are the best choices, but you should gutload them and dust them with calcium prior to feeding.
Water: Your gecko needs water! Put a water dish in the cage that is big enough to immerse the gecko, but small enough for it to climb out of.
Hiding: Provide 2 hiding spots for your gecko. One should be placed on the warm side of the tank and one on the cool side. They also need a humid hide to assist them with shedding. A humid hide can be easily made by placing moss inside a commercial hide or by cutting a hole in an old plastic container. Mist the moss to keep it humid. You can use commercial hides or make your own.
Basic Leopard Gecko Setup:
1 Extra Large Kritter Keeper or 10-20 gallon aquarium
2 Zoo Med Bowls XS
1 Zoo Med Rock Heater Mini
3 X Hides (your choice)
Calcium (to dust feeders and provide in dish)
Newsprint or paper towel as substrate and a moss for humid hide