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Updated 01/22/20 @ 8:30am

   Frogs & Toads Care

Frogs & Toads
Frogs and toads all share similar characteristics which makes providing habitats for them easier than many other pets. They all need the same basic habitats for survival with a few minor modifications depending on the specie you purchase. Remember that generally speaking you can have multiple frogs in the same habitat, but you CANNOT mix species. The basic frog setup includes the following items:
Big-eyed Tree Frog Leopard Frog
Tomato Frog Bumble Bee Arrow

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A suitable tank/terrarium/reptarium that should be able to house the number of pets you order.  Rule of thumb here is that the bigger the frog the bigger the tank.  The more frogs you have…the bigger the tank.  Most frogs only need a 10-20 gallon tank with an enclosed top.  If there is an opening in the tank where a frog can stick its head through it can get out.

Secondly your tank needs to have a water source.  All frogs and toads require water for drinking and soaking.  Your water dish should be shallow enough for your frog/toad to be able to get into and out of easily, but large enough to provide enough moisture for your pet.  If you have a pump/filter you can make a false-bottom aquarium and fill the bottom part of the aquarium with water and then adjust the water to land ratio using rocks and substrate.  Aquatic frogs need more water than terrestrial frogs so adjust the water to land ratio accordingly.  Some frogs only need 10% of the area to be land while others do fine with 90%.  Take your frogs natural habitat into consideration when designing their habitat.

The third thing that you need is a substrate.  The easiest way to make a substrate for your pet is to fill the bottom of the container with a few inches of aquarium gravel and then cover it with soil/sand and topping it with moss/bark to help retain moisture and humidity.

You’ll need a spray bottle to mist the habitat to keep the humidity level up.

Most people like to keep either live or plastic plants in the habitat to provide hiding spots and places for their pets to climb.  You should also supply rocks, wood, or other suitable hiding places for your new frog.

A Frog Habitat on a Budget:

A fully enclosed small reptarium or plastic/acrylic tank.  (Reptarium Plus 22 Gallon or Kritter Keeper XL.)

A water dish.  ZooMed H20 Bowls or provide your own dish.

Substrate/bedding material.  Flukers Repti-Moss or Flukers Repti-Bark

Materials for your frog to climb on and to decorate your tank.  Plants/wood/hiding spots.

Food for your frog.  Crickets – Most frogs prefer crickets, mealworms, earthworms, or you can buy HBH Frog Bites.  Frogs will eat up to 10 live insects per week.

Optional Items: Light sources.  Frogs unlike many pets do not require a light source.  As long as they are receiving light during daylight hours they will be fine.  If you have them in an area that does not receive light during the day you may want to provide light for 8-12 hours per day.  A heat rock or under-tank heater. (Lighting can also provide heat and most frogs can tolerate temperatures from 60-80 degrees so a heat source is not a necessity unless your frogs are in an area where the temperature fluctuates.  Heat Rocks and Under-Tank Heaters.

A small fountain pump or filter pump can be used to provide a natural filtration system if you use a false-bottom aquarium setup.  There are many sites that provide information on how to do this, but basically you fill your aquarium with rocks and aquarium gravel which will allow water to flow through them and put your pump in a corner that will be covered with substrate.  Using tubing you have the pump pull the water from the bottom of the aquarium to the top of the land substrate (usually you leave part of it rock/gravel for this purpose) and then it will form a waterfall back into the water.  This provides a natural filtration for the water and means you have to clean less often.

If you cover the aquarium gravel with moss or bark you will want to change it out when it becomes soiled/moldy/slimy.  The same is true of any substrate you use.  I have heard of people using leaf-litter to cover the aquarium gravel as it provides a more natural habitat.  This will also need changed out when it becomes messy.

Again, the most important thing to remember is that your frogs should be housed in a cage that replicates as closely as possible their natural environment.  Ideally you should have your cage set up before you get your frogs, but they can tolerate temporary housing for a few days while you get your habitat set up.  Another important thing to remember is that frogs do not tolerate water unless it has been dechlorinated.  You can do this by allowing it to sit for 24-48 hours or by dropping dechlorinization drops into the water.  Some people suggest doing both.

Your frog will eat up to 10 insects a week.  When feeding your frog choose insects that are roughly about the width of their head or smaller.  If it can’t fit into their mouths it becomes harder for them to eat.  Crickets are one of their favorites.  Most people suggest dusting the crickets with a vitamin powder before feeding them to the frogs, but if you raise your own crickets and feed them nutritious foods they should provide enough vitamins for your frog.  Other insects should also be coated with a vitamin dust prior to feeding.

Good luck!  With the proper care and setup your new frog can lead a healthy and happy life.

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